We were up at 7.30am and washed, dressed and down in the large restaurant in good time for our buffet breakfast. The Newmarket group were assigned the same tables as last night, and we enjoyed a substantial buffet breakfast of Greek yoghurt with granola and fruit, as well as croissants, grapefruit juice and good hot coffee. We also ensured our steel water bottles were full, ready for another scorching day.
The coach arrived and after wishing Yannis “kalimera” we took our seats on the bus for the relatively short ride to the archaeological site at Mycenae. According to the epic poems of Homer, this was the city of the legendary king Agamemnon, who was the leader of the Greeks during the Trojan War. It was also the setting for many other myths in Greek tragedies, particular those connected with Agamemnon and his family.
Perched on a rugged hill overlooking the plain of Argolis, the fortified citadel is world-famous for its dramatic engineering and architecture. Visitors enter through the Lion Gate, which is the oldest surviving monumental sculpture in Europe. The citadel is enclosed by massive defensive fortifications known as Cyclopean walls, built from boulders so immense that later Greeks believed only the mythical Cyclopes could have moved them. Beyond its walls, the site features the remains of a royal palace complex and spectacular beehive-shaped burial chambers called tholos tombs, most notably the grand Treasury of Atreus, or Agamemnon’s Tomb.
We walked around under the flawless sky, marvelling not only at the archaeological remains but also at the scenic backdrop. There were many olive trees, whose shelter we sought wherever possible as Aris gave us information on what we were looking at. From our elevated position we could look out towards the distant mountains under their shimmering heat haze, and the surprisingly-green countryside.
Our next visit, which afforded us some respite from the heat and the sun (and allowed us to use the restrooms) was the Archaeological Museum of Mycenae, which contained lots of artefacts that gave an insight to everyday life for the Mycenaeans, as well as their beliefs concerning death and the afterlife.
Because the Mycenaeans believed that the deceased would carry their identity and daily needs into the next world, burials were highly determined by social class. Elites and rulers were buried with an immense wealth of grave goods—including gold death masks, jewellery, bronze armour, and intricately crafted weapons—while lower classes were laid to rest with practical, everyday items. Food supplies, jars of oil, and even sacrificed animals like horses or dogs were frequently left in the tombs to offer comfort for the upcoming spiritual journey. Here in the museum we could see ancient exhibits to this effect; they were fascinating, and so very well preserved.
Afterwards it was time for lunch, and we returned to the coach which took us for the short journey back to Nafplio, where we had some free time before we had to return to the hotel. We decided (on a recommendation of one of the other people in our party) to head for Nafplio bus station where you could get a decent hot sandwich for only two euros. Trevor and I were not terribly hungry as we had had a decent breakfast, so we decided we’d have a hot cheese and ham sandwich between us and a cup of freshly-ground coffee each, which we ate sitting at a table outside, just sitting enjoying watching the world go by.
Then we spent some time browsing around the shops before going to find somewhere to have a freezing cold pint of Mythos. 🙂
At 3.30pm we reconvened at the coach, ready to head back to the Amalia Hotel. We would have some time to rest before taking part in a further (optional) visit to Palamidi Castle, which was perched on a steep hill. Visitors had the option of coming back down and back to the hotel on the coach, or walking down the 804 steps and making their own way back. No thank you, not for me; I don’t think my knees could have coped with all those steps!
Therefore, while Trevor and several of the others left at five o’clock to visit the castle, I had a half-hour power nap before I took the time to have a long, hot shower and do my hair as best I could (it never holds its style in the heat!) before sitting out on our small balcony for a while. I then did some of this blog, read my book and looked over the photographs we had taken so far this trip, which had certainly been very interesting so far.
At around 7.30pm, the extra voices and noise I heard in the corridor indicated that the others had returned, and Trevor had half an hour to get washed and changed before dinner at eight o’clock.
Once again we made our way to the large, airy restaurant with its many glass doors and windows, looking out onto the lush gardens. The sun had just set and the trees looked wonderful, silhouetted against the colourful sky. I had to take a photo. Who can resist a tree silhouette?
Once again, we enjoyed a delicious buffet dinner washed down with cold water and the local wine. There was no shortage of conversation with the others in our party who were, like us, well-travelled and had plenty of anecdotes to tell.
Several of us adjourned to the piano bar again afterwards, and I enjoyed an Aperol Spritz while listening to the enthusiastic (and somewhat eccentric) local pianist. It was somewhat incongruous when he started playing “Winter Wonderland” – not only was it still only September, but in the 33°C heat it was anything but a winter wonderland. 🙂
After another drink (I had a very good caipirinha this time) we decided to head up to our room around 11 o’clock. We would be leaving again in the morning so we packed up the few things that we had unpacked, leaving only our jammies, toiletries and cosmetics out. We would be sorry to leave this fabulous hotel, but at the same time we looked forward to the next stage of our “Ancient Greece Uncovered” adventure.
Once again, we slept very well.