We were up at 7.30am as usual, and we looked out of the window to see that we were already docked in Isafjorður, a town with a rich seafaring history that we had previously visited in 2006. Although the weather was dry, the tops of the nearby mountains were swathed in low cloud.
We ate our breakfast in The View as usual, then went out onto the aft decks to see that we had company today; sister ship Balmoral. We love the Balmoral and have done seven wonderful cruises on her, the last one being in October last year. Looking across at her bow brought back lots of happy memories of this lovely ship, so full of character. 🙂
We were booked to go on a half-day excursion this afternoon, so we had the morning at leisure, which we spent doing the usual things such as indoor kurling (which we didn’t win). We also went along to the charming Earth Room for one of our complimentary posh coffees each. The Earth Room is decorated in muted shades of brown and green and is dedicated to those who were or are inspired by our wonderful planet. It’s like being in an elegant drawing room, with a large bookcase containing books on topics such as evolution, climate change, recycling and carbon footprints. On the walls are large portraits of Charles Darwin and Sir David Attenborough. We sat down on a couch under Sir David’s portrait and enjoyed our coffees, which each came with a little coconut cookie.
Afterwards, we returned to 3388 to collect our tour tickets, shipboard passes and cagoules, ready for our trip. We gathered in the Neptune Lounge and had a short while to wait until our group was called. Then we made our way to the gangway on A Deck and disembarked.
Our first visit was out in the verdant countryside to a place called Tunguskógur. It was gorgeous here; all mountains and pine trees, a waterfall and babbling brook. The air was crisp and cool and had that incomparable scent of rain and fresh grass. As we strolled along, and over a little wooden bridge, I spotted a flash of blue in the trees and realised it was a tent; apparently this was a popular camping ground. A small wooden building had a sign proclaiming that this was the camping facilities of toilets and washbasins; the toilets were only open to campers and not the general public. I looked at the blue tent and imagined its occupants awaking to the sounds of birds and the waterfall cascading down the mountain, and emerging from their sleeping bags under the canvas into this beautiful place, so close to nature. What a lovely way to start each day. 🙂
Our guide soon rounded us all up again and soon we were back on the coach for our next visit, which was to the cultural centre. On the way, we passed along the other side of the bay from where Bolette and Balmoral were moored up, and I was able to get a photograph of them both.
When we arrived at the centre, I was enchanted by the sight of the red wooden building, flying the flag of Iceland against a mountainous backdrop and low cloud. We learned that the building dated from 1790 and was originally a storehouse and trading post.
Inside, we were shown into a room that had the distinctive strong odour of fish. Our guide explained that Isafjorður has a rich fishing heritage that goes back centuries, and fish and the sea play a large part in everyone’s lives. One of the popular ‘treats’ was that of air-dried fish (mainly herring) that is regularly eaten as a snack, much like a packet of crisps. A large basket sat in the middle of a table and contained slivers of the fish, and we were invited to help ourselves.
I quite enjoyed the dried fish; it wasn’t all that much different from eating kipper, with its smoky, chewy fishy taste and texture. However, I was not brave enough to try the fermented shark!
Several pieces of the shark were impaled on cocktail sticks for us to try. But the strong ammonia smell and the disgusted looks on the faces of those who tried it (most of whom spat it out again) was enough to put me off. It was just as well we were also offered a taste of Brennivin, Iceland’s national spirit, to take away the taste of anything else.
Brennivin is a sort of aquavit flavoured with caraway and is quite strong at 37.5% ABV. It reminded me of a softer version of grappa, a spirit popular in Croatia and its environs. It was OK, but I wouldn’t rush out to buy a bottle.
We boarded the coach once more and set off along the rugged coastline. The cloud was still low in the sky and there was a brisk wind blowing, which made it seem colder than it was. We were heading to a former fishing village which, in recent times, has become the Ósvör Maritime Museum.
The coach pulled up at a convenient stop as we had to continue on food. We picked our way along an uneven and rocky path, glad of our cagoules as it had started spitting rain. The ocean was lively and we had to shout to be heard above the roaring surf. Soon we came to some typically Icelandic fishermen’s huts, with their distinctive turf roofs. The huts contained a smoke house as well tools and equipment used in fishing. One of the huts had a wooden ladder/stairway which led to a loft area where the fishermen would sleep.
Our guide was waiting for us, leaning against a large (replica) wooden rowing boat called Ölver. He was dressed in a 19th century sailor suit made of sheepskin, which was both warm and waterproof, and he wore a sort of sou’wester hat. He told us that the fishermen would sleep in the hut, two to a bed for warmth. Each day they would head out in the Ölver or a similar boat to fish. Looking at the rough sea and the squally weather, we wondered what it would be like out in the open boat – and this was the height of summer! I imagine it was incredibly harsh going out in the boats in the winter – these fishermen were tough.
Our final stop on this fascinating look into the life and culture of the people of Isafjorður was to visit the Hólskirkja, a historic timber church which was built in 1908. Our guide motioned for us to go inside, and as we all filed in and took a pew, there was a pleasant surprise for us. A local man who was a musician and singer played some of his songs for us, and the acoustics in the church emphasised his clear vocals perfectly.
It was around 3.30pm when we arrived back at the harbour where both the Bolette and Balmoral were docked. I had to take the opportunity to get some photos of these amazing little ships, which are among our favourites. Here they both are.
We enjoyed a half-hour power nap, then we noticed that they were having another “Bubbles & Speak” session at five o’clock, so I got showered, shampooed and blow-dried my hait before changing into what we’d be wearing for dinner at six.
When we arrived at the venue, outside the Auditorium, the usual group were there, including Ian and Sue who we’d met on the Glen Massan last year. While we’d seen Ian around the ship a few times, it was the first time we’d bumped into Sue. While we were sitting chatting, the sommelier Marsh arrived with his bottles of Pere Ventura cava, and we all took part in a lively conversation about wines, while Marsh came around from time to time and kept everyone’s glasses topped up. 🙂
The session finished in nice time for first sitting, and we headed for the Bloomsbury Restaurant and table #207. We were good and hungry because we’d missed our lunch (not that it would do us any harm!). When we arrived, Steve and Susan were already there but there was no sign of Roger and Sue; either they were eating in the buffet tonight or they’d gone to Colours and Tastes, the speciality restaurant on board.
Once again, we enjoyed the usual delicious meal washed down with copious quantities of cold Grenache rosé wine and followed with an amaretto and coffee. Then we made our way along to the Neptune Lounge for tonight’s show, which featured Cruise Director Anthony Cranny. I was on two minds whether or not to go but it turned out to be a very good show indeed, and Anthony sang a good selection of songs, including some of Michael Bublé.
Afterwards, we all went along to the Morning Light pub, where they were holding a good old fashioned music hall singalong. One of the hosts came around and gave out song sheets, and everyone sang with gusto accompanied by the resident guitarist. We sang old British favourites such as Knees Up, Mother Brown; I’m Forever Blowing Bubbles and The Lambeth Walk.
We remained in the Morning Light for the quiz, which we didn’t win. We scored 13/15 and thought we were in with a chance, but there were a couple of teams who scored full marks, so that bottle of Fred Fizz eluded us once again.
Trevor and I then finished the evening off by going up to the Observatory, where one of the Bolette Show Company was giving us his rendition of favourite 1970s disco hits. The dance floor soon filled up and people of all ages joined in. There is certainly no shortage of musical entertainment on the ship, but on the other hand if you preferred something quieter there was always the Earth Room or the Bookmark Café or the botanical room. There’s something for everyone on Bolette; you can join in with as much or as little as you like.
It was about midnight when we left the Observatory and headed back to 3388 after another excellent day. After getting washed and changed, we settled down in our comfortable beds after opening our curtains a few inches to let in the light from a fresh new tomorrow.
Once again, we enjoyed a good night’s sleep.