We were up as soon as the alarm went off this morning, and we got ourselves ready and prepared for all the things we’d need for this long day ahead. Most important was our 500ml water bottles, which we had had chilling in the fridge overnight; we’d need to ensure we drank about 3-4 litres of water today.
Everyone was all breakfasted and ready to go in good time, so the coach was able to leave just a few minutes before 7.30am. Already the air was warm and sultry. We set off through the brightly sunlit streets towards our destination of Kanchanaburi; the journey would take about an hour an a half, including a stop to use the “happy room”. 🙂
It was comfortable in the coach with the aircon going full blast. Everyone spent the time either looking out of the window at the ever-changing scenery, reading, dozing or chatting. In such a short time everyone seemed to have got to know everyone else, and it was a happy, relaxed atmosphere with lots of anecdotes and lots of laughs. 🙂
Soon we arrived at our comfort stop, which included, once again, some roadside stalls selling fresh fruit and other snacks. We used the facilities and re-boarded the coach, and Aoi came around and filled up our water bottles where needed, as well as passing around bags of snacks that she’d procured at the last stop, including sesame coated banana fritters, segments of fresh pomelo and some other fried snacks. I only had some of the pomelo; I didn’t really want to eat more than necessary.
Just after 9.00am, the coach pulled up at the Death Railway Museum and Research Centre, Kanchanaburi. We all alighted and waited while Aoi obtained our tickets. Across the road from the museum was the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery, where we would go after our visit to the museum.
It was very interesting and very hard-hitting inside the museum. As well as lots of photographs, maps and explanatory notes, there were also reconstructions such as part of the railway trestle and a copy of the type of railway boxcar that took the Allied PoWs to their destination forced labour camps. Each boxcar carried 28 men and there was not enough space for anyone to lie down fully to sleep. The only ventilation came from a little air-vent high on one side of the boxcar.
As we walked through the museum, we read of the dreadful conditions that the PoWs had to endure. Lack of nutritious food, poor sanitation, overwork and the tropical monsoon and mosquitoes and other bugs meant that disease such as dysentery, cholera and malaria were rife. Men were literally worked until they dropped dead, hence the nickname of the “Death Railway” to describe the Thailand – Burma line.
One of the exhibits featured a statue called Two Malarias and One Cholera and depicted three prisoners-of-war supporting each other as they could barely stand up. At the foot of the statue, many visitors had left crosses with poppies; it was really poignant.
As we made our way around the exhibits we came across the café for which we had received a voucher for a free cup of coffee. We collected our drink then sat on a stool at the window which overlooked the war graves. Outside the museum was one of the actual train carriages that had carried the PoWs to their fate.
We still had about 20 minutes before the coach had to be back for us, to we crossed the road and entered the cemetery. Like other war cemeteries, it was beautifully kept and maintained; headstones in serried rows, each of them with flowers planted. It was tragic reading the inscriptions on some of the graves, and seeing the ages at which the brave men had had their lives cut short.
Everyone was fairly subdued when we all made our way back to the coach afterwards. I have read the true story The Railway Man by Eric Lomax, who was a survivor of the Thai-Burma railway; the book was made into an excellent film starring Colin Firth as Eric Lomax. In the book and film, Mr Lomax travels back to Kanchanaburi to confront one of his Japanese torturers; the two men meet and Mr Lomax eventually forgives his tormentor and the two old adversaries become good friends up until their deaths.
We were all back on the coach now, and it took about half an hour until we reached the main highlight of today, a visit to the Bridge over the River Kwai. The real name of the river was originally Khwae Noi, but its spelling and pronunciation were officially changed to bring it in line with tourists’ expectations.
It was really quite something to see the real, actual bridge. It had been bombed and destroyed during the war, but was then rebuilt. The bridge still carries trains to this day, and features alcoves at intervals along its length, so that people walking across the bridge can move into them to allow the train to go past. We decided to walk right across the River Kwai.
As expected, there were crowds of sightseers at the start of the bridge, so in order to get a good photo you needed to walk much further along. I managed to get several good photos with very few people in them, apart from Trevor standing in the foreground; it had to be done. 🙂
In addition, on the way over the bridge, I had to get some photos of the river Kwai itself along with the various buildings, including pagodas and temples, which flanked its sides.
It was around 12.00 noon when Aoi rounded us all up again and we made our way back to the coach. Our next visit would be to Sai Yok Noi waterfall. This seven-tiered waterfall runs through the east side of Erawan National Park and cascades through a lush green jungle, where a freshwater lake is popular with swimmers and bathers. We wouldn’t have the time or the facilities to swim today, though!
We took the time on the bus to cool down a bit and take frequent swigs from our water bottles, despite the fact that the water had reached ambient temperature. Aoi did come around and top our bottles up again.
We arrived at the park and Aoi told us we had about an hour to spend here. We all alighted from the coach and walked through the welcome shade of the trees, along wooden walkways, until we came to the waterfall… or should I say “trickle”. What a disappointment! Just a few little spurts of water dripped disconsolately down the rock face, into the pool below, where several families made the most of the water and the small “islets” on which to spread out blankets and relax or play cards. Apparently, a couple of weeks ago the waterfall was in full force, but after a few weeks of drier than expected weather, the falls had been reduced to this trickle.
Nevertheless, it was gorgeous walking through the shade of the trees and alongside the small lake. A few concession stands were dotted around, and I suddenly decided I could use a freezing cold beer. But try as we might, we couldn’t find anywhere selling beer; it was tea, coffee or soft drinks only. I therefore settled for a can of chilled Coke Zero, and I sat on a nearby wooden bench to enjoy it.
As we were walking along. a gorgeous orange butterfly settled on the handrail and rested his wings. I used the amazing zoom feature on my Samsung phone to get a nice, close up photo of him.
Once we’d completed our full circuit through the park, in the welcome shade of the trees, we made our way back to the meeting point, ready to re-board the coach.
On the way, we passed a group of giggling school children. They were looking at us and pointing and nudging each other. Finally one of them approached us and showed us a Thai-to-English translation on her phone, which asked “May we ask you a few questions?” When I said “yes”, they all gathered round and asked us questions in English. One of them then asked if they could interview us on video, and there was a bit of a Q and A session until we noticed Aoi beckoning us from the nearby coach. Apparently, everyone was back on board and they were waiting for us! We hurriedly pointed out the coach to the kids and told them we had to go. It was a nice little interlude. 🙂
It was just after two o’clock when we arrived at a restaurant for our lunch. We were all good and hungry by now, so we eagerly seated ourselves at the long tables in air-conditioned bliss. After ordering a cold Singha beer, I went to the ladies where I washed my hands and wiped my face with a tissue soaked in cold water. Then it was back to the table where we perused a set menu of local dishes; all of them looked delicious and consisted of the inevitable rice, chicken, beef and fresh vegetables.
We had over an hour in the restaurant before we had to be at the train ‘station’, so we ordered more beer and I showed some of the photos I’d taken on this and previous trips. Everyone agreed that the Samsung Galaxy phones really do have fabulous cameras on them.
Soon Aoi came around and said we had ten minutes until our train was due to leave, so we finished our drinks, paid another visit to the “happy room”, checked we hadn’t forgotten anything and exited the restaurant. Then it was only a short hop until we arrived at the train ‘station’. On the way, we passed some vintage steam engines and Trevor, who is a volunteer at the heritage steam Tanfield Railway at home, looked at the engines with interest.
Presently our train pulled up and we all hopped aboard. Apparently, the short journey would take us through some stunning scenery on the River Kwai and over a trestle, which formed part of the original “death railway”. The train carriage was fairly basic with no ornamentation or frills; the bench seats were wooden and I could imagine it being uncomfortable after a while.
Our journey lasted about 30 minutes, and then we all de-trained and made our way along to where the coach was waiting for us. After ensuring our water bottles were refilled, we settled into our seats for the long coach ride back to the Solitaire Hotel in Bangkok.
It was fairly quiet on the coach going back, as most people were asleep or lost in their own thoughts, as we had packed a lot in to the day.
It was after six o’clock before we arrived back at the hotel, too late to go for a swim. We agreed with Brian and Clare that we’d reconvene in the hotel foyer, and walk round to the Mullis Sports Bar for something to eat and to watch the Newcastle match. This would allow us time to rest, shower and change beforehand, as the game didn’t start until 9.00pm local time (which was 3.00pm back home).
Once in our room, we turned the aircon up full blast and thankfully crashed out on the bed, where I enjoyed a really good power nap. Then it was into the shower to wash off the day’s grime and shampoo and condition my hair. Despite having brought my hot air styling brush with me, the humidity just meant that my hair absolutely refused to stay in any style. I did my best with it, but it was just a limp mess at the end of my efforts.
I changed into clean shorts and a t-shirt and we made our way down to the foyer, where Brian and Clare were already waiting. Then we took the short walk through the bustling streets to the sports bar, which was already filling up in anticipation of the match starting. Trevor decided to fly the flag for Wearside with his Sunderland polo shirt, and he sat opposite Brian so he would have to look at a Mackem badge. 😀 😀
There were several games in play, being shown on different screens, and all the bar staff were wearing the club shirts of whichever teams were playing. I had to photograph Trevor with a petite Thai lass in a Newcastle shirt. 🙂
We each ordered one of those 600ml glasses of cold, refreshing Tiger Beer, except for Clare who stuck to her white wine. We didn’t want an awful lot to eat as we had had a late lunch, so we each decided to share a plate of nachos. The place was jumping with locals and tourists; it was a pleasant, lively atmosphere. The match ended Newcastle United 1, Wolverhampton Wanderers 0.
By this time, it was nearly 11.00pm and we were all pretty tired after our very full day, so we walked back along to the hotel and went into the bar for a nightcap (and some of those delicious lime-infused roasted peanuts).
We would have a bit of a “lie-in” until 7.00am tomorrow, as we were due to pack up all our stuff and leave Bangkok for the next exciting phase of our holiday, a flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia. It only took minutes after we’d settled down to fall into a deep and restful sleep.